Sunday, 27 February 2011

The Newbies

     Whilst the new 3.1 Phillip Lim collection may already be on your Christmas list and you may be in the process of mind-dressing your favourite celebrities in the subtle and elegant dresses of the AW Calvin Klein Collection, Saint Martins has had another show in which to debut its finest and freshest talents. The show itself is the birthplace of designers such as Christopher Kane and David Koma who, as anyone can tell from their latest collections, are now a central part of today's exciting and individual LFW.



     Thus you can understand the excitement fashion editors and fashionistas across the world felt, when last week saw twenty one Saint Martins graduates reveal their first attempts at collections. The future of fashion was unveiled and, in the words of Orange, 'the future looks bright'.
     Primarily there were the joint winners of the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, Victor Smedgine and Phoebe English. Smedgine's use of  a beige and black palette enhanced his eye for detail in the scroll-like shapes of his beautiful coats, trousers and LBDs just as Phoebe English's quality concerned collection, is emphasized by her sole use of  black. However, unlike her counterparts, English has weaved a glossy hair-like material in and out of her designs. The result is striking and it suggests that, under her matriculate hands, faux-hair could one day become the new faux-fur.



     However, just like the designs of Smedgine and English, there is an abundance of other graduates, who are worthy of  credit too, which they will no doubt receive throughout their up and coming careers. Whether it be Daniel Lee's unique mixture of tweed and velvet fabrics or menswear designer Pietro Franch's playful use of textures and shapes, it looks like both men and women have something to look forward to in the future of British fashion.  
    Similarly, Marque's and Almeida's use of on-trend seventies-inspired denim suggests that perhaps one day they could join the likes of design duos such as Dolce & Gabbana, DSquared2  and  husband and wife team Aminaka Wilmont, as members of fashion royalty.


   However my favourite collection of the new generation had to be that of Jenny Postle, whose outrageous qualities are reminiscent of an early Jean Paul Gaultier and whose use of patchwork is as intriguing and chic as that of Missoni. Within her wackiness a true talent has emerged - you need only look to uderstand.



     Thus, whilst browsing through what AW 2010-11 has to offer, look at these collections. Decide who you like and who you dislike and watch the careers of these potential designers unfold. Find the next Kane, find the next Koma. These are the designers whose collections we shall be wearing in ten years time and, quite frankly, that's something to look forward to.

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